Well I know all we've been posting about lately is that we keep improving and sending our projects, so I'm sorry to report that this post will be no different than the rest.
First, a little background. Cassie and I have been climbing steadily for about 5 years now. We moved to Utah in late 2006 and left for the big trip about 8 months ago. Each year saw us get a little bit stronger and more confident with new grades being achieved and old grades getting easier. We would often go back to old climbs we had done and remark how they felt easier than the last time we had climbed it the previous season. Other times those same climbs still felt very difficult.
I remember going to a bouldering area in Utah called Triassic in early 2007 and having a lot of trouble with v3s, and thinking that v5 was miles away from being possible. About a year later v4s started becoming achievable, and v6 seemed like an elite climbers grade, far beyond the abilities of us mortals. Watching people climb those grades we were in awe and talked about how great it would be to climb a 6 someday. On average we have improved about 1 v-grade a year. The exception to this has been the trip, but only a little so far. To wait a year for a new grade requires a lot of patience and perseverance. Hopefully this helps explain how we can be so happy to say we went from v6 to a v7. It's not just the grade, but also all the work that went into getting there. Sometimes its a long wait and a lot of work.
Cassie has been climbing off and on for about 14 years or so. Only seriously for the last 5. At times she had trouble seeing any improvement in her climbing abilities. She would remark how she didn't notice any improvement in her climbing, even though everyone else watching her climb saw it. It's amazing how we overlook our own abilities and doubt ourselves even when we improve. It happens to all of us. This is because we plateau. You start seeing change so slowly you don't notice it yourself.
I've always measured my progress in grades a bit more than Cassie, who generally seeks out new climbs more than I and loves climbing an easier grade just as much as a harder grade as long as its fun. There are people in climbing who scoff at those wanting to climb a new grade, saying that they are grade chasers and climb only for ego rather than fun. It's an interesting statement about a sport, and I think it has a lot do do with climbers desiring the ethic of boldness rather than strength. in other sports like the 100m sprint no one would say to a runner "sure you took off 1/100 of a second from your time and have a new world record, but did you have fun running it?", or to a gymnast who gets a perfect score "you're just a grade chaser".
Improvement is measured in many ways, but the easiest to explain is in grades. So, we post about how much fun we are having and that we are improving. The grades only tell part of the story, but are an integral piece of climbing.
This week two two major hurdles have been overcome. Cassie found a v7 called "acid wash right jug start" (can someone please rename this climb? What a boring name!) she spent two days working on it. It's a very body-tension specific route and is her first v7 in the US. She got a pizza dinner and beer for that one. Now the bar has been raised and she will need to do a v8 to get another pizza.
For Cassie finding a climb that suits her can be difficult. Often moves are done by guys that are near 6ft tall, so completely different sequences must be used by Cassie who is 5ft 4inches to climb the route. Given these obstacles she can often feel miles away from a climb because of her reach. It was this way with The Hulk v6, which at first appears to favor the taller climber. She sent yesterday and I think it really opened our eyes to how though she might be smaller than some, she is still capable of climbing routes like this. No pictures of this one because I was busy spotting. The crux move involves a reach behind move that puts you at risk of falling on your back from about 6 feet up. Needless to say a spot is a good idea on this one.
My projects included a couple of v9s that I tried over a few days. I really really really never expected that I would make it to v9 having always said that if someday I could do a single v8 I would be happy. Well, v8 went in November and a second went in January so the logical thing to do was try a 9.
Last Dance was the climb that felt most possible to me so I spent 3 days working on it. I sent just as I was starting to get tired. So psyched!
We are both riding on a streak of good climbing lately so the only thing to do is to keep pushing ourselves. Who knows what we might send? Today I write this long post from the comfort of the van and look outside to see the six inches of snow that was dumped on us last night. No climbing today, but I figure we deserve the rest.
 |
| Our climbing brush armed snowman. Wish this guy could brush the holds for us. |
I remember going to a bouldering area in Utah called Triassic in early 2007 and having a lot of trouble with v3s, and thinking that v5 was miles away from being possible. About a year later v4s started becoming achievable, and v6 seemed like an elite climbers grade, far beyond the abilities of us mortals. Watching people climb those grades we were in awe and talked about how great it would be to climb a 6 someday. On average we have improved about 1 v-grade a year. The exception to this has been the trip, but only a little so far. To wait a year for a new grade requires a lot of patience and perseverance. Hopefully this helps explain how we can be so happy to say we went from v6 to a v7. It's not just the grade, but also all the work that went into getting there. Sometimes its a long wait and a lot of work.
Cassie has been climbing off and on for about 14 years or so. Only seriously for the last 5. At times she had trouble seeing any improvement in her climbing abilities. She would remark how she didn't notice any improvement in her climbing, even though everyone else watching her climb saw it. It's amazing how we overlook our own abilities and doubt ourselves even when we improve. It happens to all of us. This is because we plateau. You start seeing change so slowly you don't notice it yourself.
I've always measured my progress in grades a bit more than Cassie, who generally seeks out new climbs more than I and loves climbing an easier grade just as much as a harder grade as long as its fun. There are people in climbing who scoff at those wanting to climb a new grade, saying that they are grade chasers and climb only for ego rather than fun. It's an interesting statement about a sport, and I think it has a lot do do with climbers desiring the ethic of boldness rather than strength. in other sports like the 100m sprint no one would say to a runner "sure you took off 1/100 of a second from your time and have a new world record, but did you have fun running it?", or to a gymnast who gets a perfect score "you're just a grade chaser".
Improvement is measured in many ways, but the easiest to explain is in grades. So, we post about how much fun we are having and that we are improving. The grades only tell part of the story, but are an integral piece of climbing.
This week two two major hurdles have been overcome. Cassie found a v7 called "acid wash right jug start" (can someone please rename this climb? What a boring name!) she spent two days working on it. It's a very body-tension specific route and is her first v7 in the US. She got a pizza dinner and beer for that one. Now the bar has been raised and she will need to do a v8 to get another pizza.
 |
| Cassie about to do the crux on Acid Wash right v7 |
For Cassie finding a climb that suits her can be difficult. Often moves are done by guys that are near 6ft tall, so completely different sequences must be used by Cassie who is 5ft 4inches to climb the route. Given these obstacles she can often feel miles away from a climb because of her reach. It was this way with The Hulk v6, which at first appears to favor the taller climber. She sent yesterday and I think it really opened our eyes to how though she might be smaller than some, she is still capable of climbing routes like this. No pictures of this one because I was busy spotting. The crux move involves a reach behind move that puts you at risk of falling on your back from about 6 feet up. Needless to say a spot is a good idea on this one.
My projects included a couple of v9s that I tried over a few days. I really really really never expected that I would make it to v9 having always said that if someday I could do a single v8 I would be happy. Well, v8 went in November and a second went in January so the logical thing to do was try a 9.
Last Dance was the climb that felt most possible to me so I spent 3 days working on it. I sent just as I was starting to get tired. So psyched!
 |
| Sticking the big throw on Low Dance - v9 |
We are both riding on a streak of good climbing lately so the only thing to do is to keep pushing ourselves. Who knows what we might send? Today I write this long post from the comfort of the van and look outside to see the six inches of snow that was dumped on us last night. No climbing today, but I figure we deserve the rest.
2 comments:
Sweet! Great work, both of you! Awesome to see how strong y'all are getting!
Glad to see you both are crushing it out there. Gives office jockies like me sweaty palms just following along. Enjoy SE Asia, I'm sure it will be awesome!
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