A blog about climbing full time on the road.

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Saturday, February 25, 2012

Bishop Video

Just finished our Bishop video and had the premier last night. Here it is!

Sunday, February 12, 2012

Red Rocks

We left Bishop last week feeling ready for a change of scene after a month and a half in the same place. We had an amazing trip to Bishop and sent a lot of great problems, but as always, there were many projects left undone. For me the main one was Rave a V7.  I finished the stand start, but couldn't put it together with the sit start before leaving. For Matthew it was Cholos, a V9 which he made great progress on, but couldn't quite link all the moves before we left.

Rave stand v5 - sit v7
Cholos v9

We were excited to head to Red Rocks though where we were excited to boulder at a place we'd been hearing good things about. We were also looking forward to seeing our friends Kim and Mars who we'd met in Squamish back in August. Unfortunately Mars injured his shoulder a few months ago so is out of commission for a while and they are planning on heading home to Australia soon. It's been great to have friends to hang out and talk with even though it is torturing Mars not to be able to climb.

We checked out the Kraft mountain area which has the highest concentration of good climbs here and were not disappointed. Since we weren't planning on spending too long here, we decided to explore as many problems as we could rather than focusing on a few projects. There is a mix of some really good problems on great rock and some not so great rock, but we found a few of the classics such as The Pearl - a V4 that I really enjoyed and the Monkey Bars boulder where there are great problems of all grades. Matthew made short work of a V6 there, Monkey Bars Right which we somehow managed not to get any pictures or video of. Matt has been unable to stop himself from projecting and is working Monkey Bar Direct v8.

The Prowler v6
The Pearl v5
Yaak Crack -- where I learned I have no endurance
 I also spent a day sport climbing with Kim. We had a really fun day, it was great to be back on a rope again, but I quickly learned that I have no endurance after the bouldering only diet we've been on.

We were planning on heading to St George today, but it is supposed to be raining there for the next few days, so we may stick around Vegas a little longer. We're excited to see our friends soon in Utah!!!

Thanks to Jenny and Jin for sending us a some pictures they took while we were in Bishop and to Kim and Mars for taking some great pics while we've been in Red Rocks.

Friday, February 3, 2012

Cassie crushes Gleaner

Sunrise over camp
Sunrise over the mountains
So far this week we've been focusing on projects. None of mine have gone down yet, but Cassie finished up one yesterday. It's called Gleaner and is a solid v6 (looks harder than this for her) and required a huge reach. Believe me it was a struggle to get to the pocket. After she got the pocket she went to a terrible left hand instead of the better pocket, missing the good one by about half an inch. You can hear me telling her to go further right to the good pocket. Cassie calmly tells me she knows and finishes the climb. I was terrified she was going to fall because she was on the worse hand. Still don't know how she held on to that bad hand. Funny how you sound on video, Cassie grunts a lot on this one :)

So, here's a sneak peak of one of our bishop trip videos.

Cassie on Serengeti v5

Cassie reaching for the pocket on Gleaner v6
Slabbing it up on Robinson's Rubber Tester