A blog about climbing full time on the road.

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Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Bishop update

Our second week at Bishop has seen much success. We've really found our groove here and the temperatures dropped enough to help with the friction. Last night's low of around 10 degrees was a bit much though.
icecube
doing the dishes
happies-canyon
view from the Happies
happies
looking at The Hulk and Solarium from the west rim
happies-pockets
The Happie's wonderful honeycombed pockets. Some of these are Sharp!!!

We went back to Rio's crack at the Sad boulders for a third day of effort. This time everything just clicked. I sent in a few tries and then Cassie, not to be outdone, sent immediately after. Rio's is a difficult line, but well worth the effort. Unfortunately the video camera batteries died just before we sent. Cassie's send was absolutely amazing. Her heal popped off the crack and she managed to get her feet back on but on terrible holds, and still managed to make the really hard cross over move. Everyone's jaws were on the ground when she pulled off the send. So far this was our favorite problem at the Sads, and one of the best v6s we've ever done.
cassie-rios-crack_2
Cassie crushing Rio's Crack v6

We got on a heap of new problems at the Happies. Serengeti was a great v5. This week I started focusing on getting some projects and it paid off just a couple of days ago. Rave v7 and Disco Diva v8 both went down, as well as Redrum v7, and Action Figure v6. Many climbs we don't have photos of, but have been diligently taking video. We're promised to ourselves to start taking more pictures.
matt-rave_2
finally sticking the crux on Rave v7
cassie-action-figure
Cassie working Action Figure - v6

We've taken a page for our British friend's (Ruth and Innes) playbook and have started rewarding our hard sends with discount day old pastries from Schatt's bakery, so we got chocolate pastries for Rio's, and jelly filled doughnuts for Disco Diva. If either Cassie sends a v7 or I send a v9 we will go out and get a pizza and beer :)

Cassie began working a fantastic climb called Every Color You Are v6 and was making good progress, but stressed a tendon in her right hand, so she is taking it a bit easy. I'm starting to focus on some more projects, and Cassie's hand continues to improve, but still needs some rest.

We went out to dinner the other night with a couple of Cassie's cousins. It was great Thai food and really enjoyable company. The next day Theresa and her friend Yvonne took us out to see some local native american sites, there was an old village marked by rock circles and grinding areas, plus petroglyphs including feet pointing towards water. Very cool and beautiful.

rock-art
rock art

We went to the buttermilks today and enjoyed buttermilk stem, and a couple of v5s on the bachar boulder. 
buttermilk-stem-matt
buttermilk stem sit start v4

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