A blog about climbing full time on the road.

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Sunday, January 23, 2011

Cassie sends "Some Get Two Fingers" V5

the thin pockets 

Most climbs are fun to work on, but after trying multiple days and falling it's common to refer to a climb as your "nemesis". "Some Get Two Fingers" was that kind of climb for Cassie. She has probably only put a day or two each year on it, but she's tried it 5 whole days which means about three + years worth of effort!

moving out the rail

Today she completed it and though it's not technically the hardest climb she has finished I think it's safe to say it's one she feels most proud of. The climb starts back under a roof and traverses a decent rail out to the face of the boulder. You get a couple of decent hands to get your feet up and then the work begins as the climb begins to work up the slightly overhanging face. One small pocket for your left hand gives you two fingers, then you move your right hand up to a wider pocket that (for cassie) takes three fingers. even so, it is substantially worse than the other pocket. from these two very small pockets you move into one of the smallest most horrible painful crimps for your left hand. it is truly an atrocious hold. it bits into your skin enough to hurt but not enough to actually feel secure on it. once you are on that crimp balance is key as you move up to a good edge for your right hand. the climb isn't over there as the topout is still a little dicey. Cassie completed it beautifully.

into the business

Saturday, January 1, 2011

The year of The Trip begins!

Finally, the years of Waiting are over and the year of The Trip is upon us! This year Cassie and I will quit our jobs for two years to travel around the US and abroad. We'll be rock climbing predominately but also exploring the scenery and culture of the world. Possibly we'll find a new place to live or maybe we'll see how lucky we are in Utah. We'll be living out of our VW Westfalia Camper for the US portion and tenting it abroad. The current departure date is somewheres around May 15th, so we aren't quite there yet but getting super close.

Only 134 days to go!