A blog about climbing full time on the road.

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Saturday, July 30, 2011

Montana - Alberta - and - British Columbia

We left the Herzog's cabin last Sunday morning after a great week of climbing with friends. We were sad to leave, but as always on the trip there was something new around the corner that tempted us to keep moving.

We left and drove for a whole day just to reach westernish Montana. We camped near Anaconda Montana along highway 1 in forest service land, and left immediately the next morning. We arrived in Missoula around lunch, picked up some supplies and left immediately again. This time we left I-90 and headed up through Thompson Falls along highway 200 (thanks for the recommend Jesse!!). Cassie and I took a swim in a small river flowing out of the Cabinet Mountains. The river was almost 10 feet deep and so clear you could easily see the bottom, it was also incredibly cold. I had to throw mojo in to get him to swim. It was a beautiful drive and we camped that night along lake Kookanusa (spell it out Ko - Can - USA) and you get the reason because the lake (reservoir) crosses the border. There is some climbing there but we didn't get to do any because the weather took a turn for the worse and was very windy and rainy. It stayed that way off and on for about a week (until today). Again it was a beautiful night of camping along the lake and a lot of driving.

Next we headed east to Glacier National Park. Neither Cassie nor I had been along the "Going to the Sun Rd". Unfortunately it might have been incredibly beautiful but we sure didn't see any sun, and almost didn't even see any mountains due to the weather. We have very few pictures because it rained nonstop the entire time. Couldn't see a thing, but that's the way it goes. We headed north into Alberta and had a relatively easy time crossing the border. The border guard asked a lot of questions and eventually found out that we were unemployed. There is apparently some concern with illegal immigrants and he was happy to hear that we had enough money to leave the country and plane tickets to Europe. He could have asked for us to do a significant bit more work by having us hold onto some kind of card we needed to return when we left (their way of keeping tabs on us), but luckily he didn't. It's still incredible to me that people would think we might become illegal immigrants. Of course, if the debt crisis causes the US economy to tank we might not come back....

We drove west along Route 3 towards Fernie British Columbia and stayed at a provincial park there. It was almost our first paid campsite in a month. We opted for it because the first free site we found along the road which was incredibly beautiful in a field next to a river, also happened to be right behind a gun range. It only took a couple of shots before we realized how close we were and we got in the van and hauled outta there as quickly as we could. The next site had more skinned deer carcasses than I've ever seen and given the bear population and the disgust with the site we chose to move on. By then it was getting dark and we were exhausted. As luck would have it we pulled into the provincial park, found the last open site and we elated to get a break from the very nice person who collects the fees. After hearing our story of intended free campsites they "forgot" to collect the fee. Many thanks to you!!!

We continued driving the next day and made it to Kootenay National Park on the west side of the Canadian Rockies. The site was excellent and within walking distance of Marble Canyon which is an outstanding limestone slot canyon with brilliant blue-green water rushing through it. There is an interesting vantage point that is precariously being hollowed out below it by the water. A little disconcerting after you realize what you have been standing on.

The next day we headed into Banff National Park and did a hike to the Six Glaciers along Lake Louise. There is some really good climbing on the back of the lake but we figured that with all the climbing we are about to do and with the incredible scenery that hiking would be the best use of our time. It was worth it. The lake is incredible (other than the huge hotel) and the hanging glaciers were awesome. At the top of the hike is a cute little teahouse that has been operated by the same family for something like ninety years. They pack in the perishables on horse, and fly in the non-perishables in the spring. It was a pretty touristy hike, but the scenery was exceptional.

We camped that night at Rampart Creek, just south of Jasper National Park. The weather continued to stay good and bad with clouds helping to create a mysterious look to the mountains, but with rain causing hikes to be more difficult. We hiked to the Athabasca Glacier at the Columbia Icefield and only stayed a few minutes since the rain and wind created an incredible chill. Along the road we saw our first bighorn sheep and Cassie got some amazing pictures of them. We drove out of the park that day and stayed off the road near a creek just north of Blue River BC.

We woke up this morning and intend to get near Kelowna BC to climb some rock again for the first time in a week. During the drive we were commenting on how we hadn't seen any bears yet and that we were disappointed. Not 5 minutes later we saw two cubs in trees with a momma bear trying to coax them both down. Cassie took something like 150 pictures while we watched.

Today I write this blog post from the library in Kamloops. We are catching up on emails and relaxing in the air conditioning. Well that pretty much catches us up. Next post should have some climbing pictures!!!

NOTE: No pictures posted because of the incredibly slow internet here in the kamloops library. some pictures did make it to flickr but we only got about 25% of them uploaded. Will add pictures asap. here's the link to the pictures that did make it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/matthewandcassie/

Thursday, July 21, 2011

ten sleep continued

We love Ten Sleep!!

The climbing is amazing and to make things even better we've had friends to hang out with and a great cabin in the mountains to stay at. The pictures can say this all better than we can. We'll be in Ten Sleep through the weekend then will make our way to Canada by the end of the month.


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ten sleep guide at sector shinto wall

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ten sleep trail marker

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jesse great green gobs of greenie goo 10a

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euro trash girl 10b

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wyoming flower child 11d/12a

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ice station zebra 10c

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Ten Sleep update

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I just do eyes 11b

Tensleep is the best climbing we've done so far on the trip. Shelf Road in Colorado comes close with great limestone and tons of walls as well, but the variety and quality of the limestone here is more varied and interesting. The bolting is a little less spacy which also helps to inspire confidence and increase fun. Combine that with free camping very close to the camp and reasonable temps in the shade and you get a great experience.


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Cows in Camp...


We arrived at tensleep on Thursday the 7th of July and have climbed every other day since then. Cassie's arm continues to feel good and we continue to push ourselves on progressivly harder grades. Our first day we climbed at an area known as Charlie's Circus which has great cool shady climbing until just after lunch or so. The climbs there are relatively short but are excellent. We did a few climbs around 11a or below our first day, then went back again found a few projects and worked them. I tried a really bouldery 12a called "The Barnum Route" and sent on my third try. A great long overhanging 11a called "Circus in the Wind" spit me off twice at the last bolt. I still need to get back to it and finish.


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After a few days of easier climbing we headed to an area with a huge number of climbs called "Mondo Beyondo". We joined our new friends Tom and Laura. Tom is semi-retired and owns a eco-lodge in Panama and Laura is a pro x-country skier (one of the best in the country). They are both super hard climbers and worked on 5.12s all week without a rest. We opted for a few 11s called "I just do eyes" 11b and "Slightly Toasted Cracker" 11d. Both Cassie flashed or onsighted. Those are her hardest onsight and flashes to date and she was very happy with them. Both climbs are quite long (10-13 bolts) and are technical which is the style Cassie really excels at.

We also went to the Valhalla area and hopped on "Great White Behemoth" 12b which is the hardest lead either of us has tried to date. It's an incredible wall that is slightly overhanging the entire way. All of the moves are quite difficult and it just keeps coming. We were both impressed with the excellent rock quality and were happy to make it to the top even though neither of us redpointed the route. We are planning to go back for another shot.


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Hoping for fish


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Sunset Reflection

After a week of climbing Jesse, Nicole, Chris, Renee, and Tori showed up from SLC. Also joining us was Tom (Nicole's dad from South Carolina) We climbed at another area called Metropolis and the Daily Planet Boulder. Two good crack climbs warmed us up. Jesse led Luthor (a 9/10 that felt more like 10b) and I led "Captain Tombstone" (also a 9/10 that felt more accurate). The crew then headed over to "Moon Units Secret Shinto Ride" (10-) and I hopped on "Solid Gold Secret Sauce" (12a). After those we headed to some brand new routes on the Cigar that were 10b and 10c which Cassie and Jesse led. The shots were quite spectacular.


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Solid Gold Secret Sauce 12a

That evening we headed to the Herzog's cabin on the east side of the Bighorns. It's a beautiful place next to a mountain stream and pond. Mojo has shown his obessive nature and is constantly swimmining in the pond and looking for fish. We've been eating great food, playing cards, watching the sun set, and relaxing by swimming in the pond. We also went to Crazy Woman Canyon yesterday and got on a few routes that were good quality. Crazy Woman is about 15 minutes from the cabin while TenSleep is more like 40 minutes or so. We're headed back to TenSleep tomorrow.

It's been great climbing with all our friends and catching up after months apart. Seems like we just pick up where we left off and everyone is laughing and joking.

We're headed into Buffalo to pick up our mail and get some supplies. We'll be climbing at Ten Sleep for about another week or so, maybe a little less. Then we head north to Canada!





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Jesse - The Cigar 10b


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Intense climbing shoe discussion


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Herzog Cabin Sunset



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Chris - Cowpoke 10d - Crazy Woman Canyon

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Nicole - Bury the hatchet 10d - Crazy Woman Canyon